September 9th 2022
The morning in Bilbao begins with a very special light. As I open the window, the cool, clean air of the Basque Country sweeps in to greet me. The city, affectionately called “El Botxo” – the hole or the hollow – by locals, lies nestled within a deep, narrow valley. It is fascinating to see how the urban avant-garde transitions seamlessly into a massive natural backdrop here.
Wherever you look, the mighty, gently rolling mountains frame the city. This morning, the slopes of Monte Artxanda and Monte Pagasarri gleam in countless shades from deep emerald green to a soft, almost silvery moss green, typical of the humid climate of “Green Spain”. The mountain peaks are not rugged or jagged, but wave-like and soft, almost as if the tides of the nearby Gulf of Biscay had gently sculpted these hills. In contrast to the bright blue sky, where white banks of clouds chase each other today, the ridges rise like a living protective wall, lovingly enclosing the city.
I put on my shoes and follow the call of the Nervión River, which winds like a silver ribbon through the center of town, connecting historic heritage with modern life. A walk along the Nervión River reveals the spectacular transformation of the city. The futuristic structures reflect the shifting light of the Basque sky.
The Zubizuri Bridge sparkles white in the morning light and leads me directly over to a place that completely captivates my senses. Suddenly, I stand before the gigantic, curved titanium plates of the Guggenheim Museum. Frank Gehry’s masterpiece looks less like a rigid building from this angle and more like an organic being nested against the riverbank. The titanium skin changes its color depending on the clouds: at times it shimmers in a cool silver, minutes later it reflects a warm, almost golden light. I pause beneath the huge, delicate legs of the spider sculpture “Maman” by Louise Bourgeois. Looking through this steel artwork at the gleaming facade of the museum is breathtaking and leaves a deep sense of awe for human creativity.
I follow the river promenade further upstream. The modern, silvery-gray elegance gradually gives way to warmer tones. The magnificent City Hall of Bilbao appears ahead of me. With its richly decorated, sandstone-colored baroque facade and historic statues, it forms a beautiful bridge to the traditional soul of the city. It is precisely this contrast that makes the atmosphere here so vibrant: on one side, the futuristic design of the 21st century, on the other, the proud spirit of the past. Behind the modern facades, traditional life pulses through the narrow alleys of Casco Viejo. Here, baroque churches meet lively, neoclassical squares.
Finally, I reach Casco Viejo, the historic old town. Here, in the narrow alleys of the Siete Calles, the soundscape changes. The echo of my footsteps bounces off the old house walls, from whose wrought-iron balconies colorful flower baskets hang. I step into the square in front of San Nicolás Church. The dark wooden doors and robust bell towers radiate a deep serenity, while the bustling activity of the awakening city becomes audible in the background.
Just a few steps further, the neoclassical Plaza Nueva opens up. Beneath the elegant archways, the tempting aroma of fresh coffee and the first pintxos of the day is already in the air. I sit down at one of the small outdoor tables, order a café con leche, and watch the locals. The square feels like a large, open-air living room, framed by warm ocher tones and the soft light gray of the arcades.
To finish my morning, I drift deeper into the labyrinth of the old town until I reach Plaza de Santiago with its ornate fountain. Right next to it, the majestic, neo-Gothic west facade of Bilbao Cathedral rises high. The intricate rose window breaks the sunlight into a thousand colors. As I raise my eyes, I see the green slopes of the surrounding countryside rising above the roofs of the cathedral and the colorful wooden balconies once again. Nature is never more than a glance away in Bilbao. It gives this city, which has so boldly reinvented itself, its enduring, earthy frame.
Architecture and culinary delights: Bilbao’s historic main square
I finish my coffee, look out at the forested hills, and already know that my path this afternoon will take me up to the summit by funicular railway to marvel at this green basin from far above.